Authentic. Indigenous. Transformative. I sift through my spa vocabulary, seeking the one perfect word to capture the essence of Palmaïa. Words tumble in a mental parade—three syllables, four, two—they swirl, merge, and fade, leaving behind a single truth. This spa, this sanctuary, is all of them and more. It is authentic. It is indigenous. It is a journey and a ritual. And yes, it is transformative—if you allow it to be.
It is conscious, alive, and real. So real, that to me, it seems to border on the surreal.
Inside one of eight spa temples
I search for my word, still immersed in the spellbinding jungle spa by the sea in Playa del Carmen. Every moment draws me deeper into its magic. I am happier here than I have been in a long time at a spa. This search feels pressing—I need to find the one word that encapsulates Palmaïa, so I can share it. Yet so many spa-world words, including those mentioned above—“authentic,” “indigenous,” “transformative”—have been dulled by overuse. These words, once rich with meaning, have become hollowed out by trends. How does one articulate the indescribable? How does one describe something so pure, so perfect, that any attempt to capture it feels like a disservice?
I am lying on the massage bed in one of eight thoughtfully crafted temples along a jungle path. My ritual is nearing its end. And at last, I find my word.
Profound. Palmaïa is profound.
Atlantis Spa at Palmaïa
The author, dressed in the spa’s garb, awaits her ritual
From the moment I stepped into Atlantis Spa, I felt as though I had crossed a threshold into another world—an otherworldly sanctuary suspended between realms. The air was thick with the scent of incense, each swirl pulling me deeper into its mystery. The staff, ethereal in their serenity, felt less like people and more like guardians of this sacred space, standing poised between acceptance and rejection. In that moment, I knew this place would either embrace me fully, drawing me into its transformative fold, or it would resist me, sensing that I wasn’t yet ready—or perhaps not aligned with what it had to offer—to receive its gifts.
With a mix of anticipation and surrender, I crossed the threshold and felt an immediate sense of belonging. At home in this otherworldly sanctuary, I filled out my intake form and chose a customized 120-minute Pre-Hispanic Ritual, content to be guided toward whatever experience lay ahead.
Palmaïa is not just a destination; it is an experience that becomes a part of you. It is profound.
A Transformative Retreat
Gabriel, my guide—a gentle presence—escorted me to a small locker area. Changing felt ceremonial; the garment I was given, friar-like yet impossibly stylish, heightened the sense of ritual. My journey began with a BioCharger session in a simple yet stunning temple with floor-to-ceiling windows.The wellness device combines various energy modalities, including light and electromagnetic frequencies, to help support energy, recovery, and overall wellbeing. I had experienced the BioCharger previously at two other spas, but those experiences were nothing like this one. The swirling orange lights were mesmerizing, almost hypnotic, though they left me feeling slightly nauseous halfway through. Oddly, my phone wouldn’t work (in all fairness, I wasn’t supposed to have it with me). I had wanted to capture the device’s captivating whirling lights, but instead, I found myself dizzily present, drawn into the moment in a way I hadn’t anticipated.
When the session ended, Gabriel retrieved me and guided me down a jungle path to the temazcal. The fire was already burning, heating the rocks to be used in the ritual. The air smelled of burning herbs, and I was given a choice of an organic body product to apply before entering.
The jaguar: fierce guardian of sacred knowledge
Outside the temazcal, a rustic altar invited contemplation—earth, jaguar, dog, owl—symbols steeped in meaning. Since I began traveling to Mexico in the ’90s, the jaguar has remained a constant source of fascination. Embodying strength, courage, and a deep connection to the spiritual realm, the jaguar was revered by ancient cultures as a guardian of sacred knowledge and the mysteries of the night.
Inside, Gabriel laid the hot stones into the central pit, one by one. The warmth, the scents, the flickering light—it was nothing short of profound. I asked Gabriel questions about his culture, and our conversation quickly deepened into something meaningful and intimate. He spoke with heartfelt sincerity, sharing the richness of his heritage and traditions. I was especially moved as Gabriel described the practice of women giving birth in temazcals—a sacred ritual that symbolizes both strength and reverence. Rooted in Mesoamerican tradition, the temazcal was seen as a representation of the womb, offering a warm, protective space for labor and birth. It was not just a physical process but a deeply spiritual one, connecting the mother to ancestral wisdom and the earth’s life-giving power.
Our exchange felt like more than just words; it was a shared moment of connection and understanding that still lingers with me.
Stepping foot into the happy cenote
Afterward, Gabriel led me to a cenote, where the crystalline water seemed to breathe with life. The sun and shadows moved in harmony across its surface, as if the water itself danced joyfully in its own rhythm. The water was alive, vibrant, and aware. Gabriel left me alone to immerse myself, to splish, splash, and connect—embraced by the stillness and the quiet murmurs of the jungle.
Next, I met Norma, my therapist, for the continuation of my ritual. Norma radiated wisdom and passion, creating an aura of safety and trust that immediately put me at ease. Her chanting during the four-direction ritual—an homage to earth, wind, fire, and water—was Amazonian in origin and carried a powerful energy that felt both grounding and transformative.
I teared up as she honored our ancestors and their wisdom, the rhythmic drumming reverberating through my being, each beat seemed in sync with my heartbeat. The magic and sacredness of the land surrounded us, and I felt the unmistakable presence of those who had come before. It was as if I could merge with everything around me—becoming one with the ancient rocks, the giant swaying feathery ferns, or even the gentle breeze that carried their whispers through this sacred space.
My ritual with Norma continued with an intense blend of scrub, oil massage, and herbal poultices. During this session, she shared her story—a former pro soccer player turned healer. Her dream of opening a martial arts school for children stayed with me, and I couldn’t help but think how perfectly it could align with Palmaïa’s conscious parenting program. I later shared her vision with the retreat staff, suggesting they consider incorporating it into their offerings.
As the ritual ended, Norma struck a chime and a singing bowl, and in that moment, I envisioned a white buffalo transforming into a snowy owl, then into a white dove whose wings wrapped around me. It was pure magic. It was profound.
Palmaïa — the House of AïA
A swim-up suite complete with an oval soaking tub
At first glance, Palmaïa might seem like a very nice yoga retreat with exceptional vegan cuisine and well-appointed rooms. But it is so much more. Palmaïa is a retreat in the truest sense—a destination that elevates the very idea of wellness.
Unlike many retreats striving to replicate authenticity, Palmaïa simply is. It has it all: an incredibly caring, expert staff, life-enhancing experiences, exquisite clean cuisine, and a sense of community that is both profound and unforced.
I loved the ease of the place and the proximity to the sea. Nothing was imposed upon me, not even yoga, though it was central to the retreat for many guests. I felt perfectly at home among yogis without ever stepping onto a mat myself. Staying in a ground-floor swim-up suite, with direct access to the tranquil pool just steps from my terrace, I found effortless luxury in every detail—my oversized oval soaking tub perfectly positioned to capture calming views, biodegradable amenities to soothe my skin, and a kombucha-stocked fridge to refresh and replenish.
Every detail of Palmaïa feels intentional, from the exquisite hand-painted wallpaper to the thoughtful curation of altars throughout the property. I attended an art class, a meditative concert, and a healing mantra session—each experience enriched me.
Palmaïa attracts an eclectic mix of guests—families, solo travelers, seekers of all kinds—and the shared sense of respect and presence among them is palpable.
Palmaïa is not just a destination; it is an experience that becomes a part of you. It is profound.
Mary Bemis
Mary Bemis is Founder & Editorial Director of InsidersGuidetoSpas.com. An advocate for all things spa, Mary forged a vocabulary for spa reportage that is widely used by those who cover the issues today. Recently honored as a Top 30 Influential Voice Transforming Wellness by Medika Life, Mary is an inaugural honoree of Folio’s Top Women in Media Award. Her spa media roots run deep—in 1997, she launched American Spa magazine, in 2007, she co-founded Organic Spa magazine, and in between serving on the ISPA and NYSPA Board of Directors, she was on the launch teams of Luxury SpaFinder and New Beauty magazines. Named a "Wonder Woman of Wellness" by American Spa magazine, Mary was honored by the International Spa Association with the distinguished ISPA Dedicated Contributor Award. She is a special advisor to the non-profit Global Wellness Day.
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