No matter how diligently we slather on mineral SPF and skulk around in comically wide-brimmed straw hats, summer always finds us. And despite the possible uptick in freckles and parched patches here and there, most of us wouldn’t have it any other way. There’s a certain ease to that gloriously sunny stretch of time, a respite from the go-go-go of the rest of the calendar year.
Still, our heat- and sun-compromised complexion pays a price. And to help softly coax it back into shape, a trip to your favorite facialist is the ultimate smart move.
“I always recommend a gentle approach as we transition into fall,” says esthetician Justine Kahn, founder and CEO of Botnia Skincare, a spa brand steeped in lush plant extracts culled in part from its own Sausalito micro farm. “I’m cautious about jumping into anything too intense right away, especially since, depending on where you live, September and October can still deliver plenty of UV exposure.”
A Handful of Spa Treatment Dos & Don’ts
In this transition time heading into the fall and winter, one chief goal emerges: replenishing hydration lost to the elements.
As a long-time esthetician and owner of two Complexions spas in upstate New York, Denise Dubois recommends prioritizing “deep, hydrating facials” to get post-summer skin back on track.
Manhattan-based Elyse Hamme, esthetician for The Spa at Hotel Chelsea, likes to amp up the efficacy of post-summer facials for her clients. “I love using cryo globes,” she says, “and incorporating hydrating gel or aloe masks. A trusted go-to for estheticians is a good jelly mask.”
Later, as we push deeper into the new season and are faced with less aggressive daily UV, pro-level brightening treatments can be added to the To Do list.
“Addressing pigmentation and evening out skin tone is important, but it should be done gradually…”
“Addressing pigmentation and evening out skin tone is important, but it should be done gradually,” says Dubois. “Once tans fade, it’s ideal to introduce IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) treatments to reduce pigmentation and redness from environmental damage.”
What to skip right now?
“I don’t suggest doing medium- to deep-depth peels,” says Kahn. “Brightening and evening our pigmentation is key, but I’d start with hydrating and repairing before diving into more aggressive treatments. It’s about giving your skin what it needs at this moment and setting it up for success in the cooler months.”
Ultra-Soothing Skincare Ingredients to Seek Out
Slacked-off on a dedicated skincare regimen over the summer? Completely understandable. But now it’s time to get right back into a disciplined plan of action, with a focus on a few key ingredients.
“With the sun exposure, heat, dehydration from the pool and more, it’s important to have a balanced skincare routine to recover from all the summer activities,” says esthetician Lissy Kotter, founder of Lissy Skincare.
Asked for her top post-summer ingredients, Kotter is quick to tick off vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, mandelic acid for gentle exfoliation, and beta glucan for hydration.
Dubois is also a fan of vitamin C but has a lengthy list of additional priority ingredients, including hyaluronic acid for intense hydration; niacinamide for calming inflammation and bolstering the skin’s barrier; peptides for collagen production; ceramides to boost suppleness, and ectoin for a reduction in trans-epidermal water loss.
Kahn is a fan of pomegranate enzymes, which play a key role in the brand’s Essential Enzymes; vitamin A from algae extract, a non-sensitizing retinol alternative found in its Well Serum, and sea buckthorn oil, which she dubs “a true hero for repairing sun damage” and made sure to include in Botnia’s Wisdom Oil formula.
Like Kotter, Hamme is a fan of beta glucan, “because it works on the skin’s natural ability to retain water.” Another fave is CBD. “CBD oil is like the holy grail,” she says, “because it calms the skin, brings a beautiful glow, moisturizes and is chalk full of antioxidants and fatty acids such as Omegas 3, 6, and 9.”
The All-Star Spa Product Lineup
Not surprisingly, estheticians have beloved products they turn to time and time again.
At Canyon Ranch, Virginskin Daily Glow Active Hydrator is on the ascent. Powered by a hefty 4% brightening niacinamide, super-hydrating polyglutamic acid, and line-softening peptides alongside a blend of botanicals indigenous to Provence, it’s a re-engineered update on a beloved formula developed by the renowned New York dermatologist Albert Lefkovits.
For Hamme, it’s all about two hemp-fueled power players from Muri Lelu: Mauvaise Herbe Indica Oil and Bloomrise Sativa Serum. “The oil’s a must-have, but so is the serum,” she says. “Typically one’s for day and one’s for night, but I sometimes use them together.”
Klur’s Gentle Matter Daily Moisture Cleanser and hyaluronic acid-meets-beta-glucan Immersion Serum Concentrate also get high marks from Hamme. “The beta glucan really elevates the hyaluronic acid, and it also features reishi mushroom, aloe, and other calming ingredients. Layer that under any Muri Lelu product and it’s like a hug on your skin.”
But while there’s plenty we can achieve with a consistent at-home skincare regimen and stellar products, it’s still important to pop in to see your trusted esthetician from time to time. Hamme likens getting regular esthetic treatments to the teeth cleanings we swing by the dentist for twice a year.
“Sure, you can take care of your face at home,” Hamme says, “but it’s still necessary for a trusted professional to give you a deeper cleanse and keep an eye on your progress.”
Dana Wood
Dana Wood is the Contributing Beauty Editor at InsidersGuidetoSpas.com. She has been writing about beauty and wellness for decades, and no matter how many times she taps the words “hyaluronic acid” or “healing modalities” into her keyboard, it never gets old. Dana spent a total of 20 years at Condé Nast, serving as Beauty Director for W, Cookie, and Brides. A transplanted New Yorker, Dana now lives in St. Petersburg, Florida. Her peak spa experience? Dana says it’s impossible to decide between the Coco-Mango Body Buff at the Driftwood Spa at Jakes in Treasure Beach, Jamaica, The Land of Beautiful Waters Anti-Aging Facial at Four Seasons Nevis, and the 80-minute 5 Senses massage at the Spa by JW in Marco Island, Florida.